Chauncenia, 2nd Place National Womens Open



Photo appeared on deadpointmag.com

Chauncenia placed 2nd in the women’s open category at the ABS Nationals 10, February 14, 2009. Open is the category for any age 16 and older, any status, professional or amateur. Generally speaking, it’s an adult competition.

Chris Wall, Chauncey’s coach from the Boulder Rock Club, has done a fantastic job training her over the last year and she worked very hard leading up to this competition. Robyn Ebersfield of Boulder also did some late tune-ups on Chauncey the last two weekends before the ABS Nationals. We appreciate the great coaching she’s had.

After getting skunked on the first women’s open problem, Chauncey was hopping mad and fired back flashing problems #2 and #3. A flash is when you top the problem on the first attempt. She was the only woman competitor to top problem two and only she and Alex Johnson flashed problem 3. Alex Puccio topped problem three but not on her first attempt. All three women made it to the zone hold on problem four. Alex Puccio and Alex Johnson both topped problem one, which Chauncey got skunked on. So, that gave all three two tops. The margin was just attempts made and it was a very close fight between the top 3 women.

Here are some videos of Chauncey’s climbs:

The first video is of the women’s second problem in finals. Chauncenia was the only one to flash and top this problem.



Problem 3:



Problem 4:


Speed finals

The final day of the world competition was today. Chauncey went into today’s speed event in 9th place. That matched her against her team mate, Amanda Sutton, in the head-to-head bracket which was unfortunate.

Chauncey and Amanda both raced really well and it was very close. Amanda beat her by 0.3 seconds in the two combined route times. It was a great display of sportsmanship and I was very proud of Chauncey’s racing - she raced with heart and all her effort.

The winners side of the bracket plays out head to head, but after getting knocked out, they rank the ones who got knocked out based on time. That gave Chauncey 10th overall in speed.

So, the final results for the world championships for Chauncey were 24th in the difficulty event and 10th in the speed event.

We’re going to check out in the morning and then take the train into Sydney and stay there for the next two days. We head back on Wednesday morning. This may be the last update I make for a bit, not sure what kind of connection, if any, until we get back to the states. Thanks for reading.

Catching a breath

Sorry for the terse updates lately, there just hasn’t been a spare moment and we’re not as mobile as we would have liked to be - the gym’s a long distance from the hotel and reachable only by bus or train (taxi’s are ridiculously expensive.)

I wanted to fill some things in from the last several updates.

One thing, on Chauncey’s 2nd qualifier, day 2, she was on deck to climb - maybe a minute away - and pulled the strap of her shoe (a Sportiva Solution shoe), and the strap broke. So, there was a last-minute panic to fix that. One of the US team coaches, Mike Doyle, jumped on it, found some athletic tape and had her strapped back together in time for her to get on her route. Chauncey had been a little nervous up to that point, but said she thought that actually helped her because it released some tension when it got fixed and she was all ready - afterall, lightening just struck and she survived! :-)

She had a second pair of shoes but not with her in her bag at the route. So, lesson learned there - keep both pairs with you. She switched to her 2nd pair for semi finals.

The semi-finals route was just atrociously difficult, especially the first half. It was tiny crimps and slopers on a slight overhang (see the album). She was completely pumped by the time she got to the first major feature, she she skipped a small crimp on the underside of the roof (a point hold), and launched for the dish over the lip of the roof and missed. So, she actually made it as far as at least half the field, but because she didn’t control the crimp on the hold below where she got, she didn’t get points for that hold. So, that left her exactly where she came into the semis, in 24th.

She’s getting ready this morning for speed finals. As I mentioned in the last update, she has to go head-to-head with another US team mate, so one of them will get knocked out this round and one will advance to the next round. You keep climbing as you win, but when you lose a matchup, then they rank the losing side of the bracket by time. That’s what I’m told anyway.

I just heard a scream out of the bathroom as the girls were getting ready this morning. The 240 to 120 converter just blew up while Ali was blow drying her hair and flames were coming out. Everyone’s alright. Defied death again.

Photos from Semi finals lead.

Semi-finals

It’s after 10pm right now and we just got back to the hotel from the finals in lead/difficulty.

First semi-finals, girls 16-17, Chauncey ended up 24th and didn’t make the 8 cut for finals. Sasha, Marah and Tiffany made it to finals. Of them, Sasha did well and got high on the route. I think she finished 4th but I haven’t seen the official results.

In speed climbing today, Chauncey and the US team did well. Chauncey ended up 9th coming out of qualifiers. From here on, they go head-to-head elimination brackets. They take the top 16 and bracket them 1 vs 16, 2 vs 15 and so on. Unfortunately, that pitts her against Amanda Sutton (TX) in the first round tomorrow. So, only one of them will get to go on.

We have another early morning tomorrow for speed finals, so need to get this posted and go to bed.

Chauncey Q2 Sequence

I broke down the video of Chauncey’s Q2 route into this sequence.

We get up at 5:15a tomorrow, 5:45, breakfast, 6:15 on the bus. Chauncey will climb early in the running order tomorrow unless it’s stacked (younger category goes first on the same route.) We won’t know until tomorrow when the comp starts.

The gym has been like an ice-box in the mornings. It’s been warmer outside than inside. So, she goes into isolation by 8a and will need to stay warm. She’ll be ready with extra layers.

In the sequence of shots I just put up you can see she wore a long sleeve T under her uniform top today and it was more comfortable for her and was able to stay looser and warmer today than yesterday.

Qualifiers 2 results

Wanted to put this update out real quick - don’t have time right now to handle pictures.

On the US team 16-17 girls, all the girls except Jesse Youngwerth made the cut for the semi-finals. Chauncey was at 25th after Q1 and improved today at 20th. Based on all the other competitors results, that put her at 24th for both Q1 and Q2. They take 26 into the semis.

Like yesterday, there were quite a few flashes and so, even if you got very high on the route, competitively that knocked you down a long ways. So, despite being at 24th overall going into the semi finals, there is not a tremendous separation in these girls yet.

Tomorrow is a marathon day. We leave at 6:15a for the gym. The semi-finals for lead are in the morning. The qualifiers for speed are in the afternoon and the finals are in the evening for lead. They only take 8 to finals from semis, so tomorrow is another huge cut. They run finals for speed on Sunday morning.

We have a team meeting in a few minutes, so will try to get Chauncey’s climbing sequence knocked out tonight before I go to bed so you can see what the climb looked like.

US Female A for Q2 running order

The US team running order for the Q2 route today for female 16-17 is:

Tiffany Hensley 27
Marah Bragdon 30
Jesse Youngwerth 34
Chauncey Cox 36
Sasha Diguilian 39

So, instead of all being up front today, they’ll be towards the end. The advantage to being near the front of the running order is you don’t have to wait and are more fresh. The advantage to being at the back of the running order is that you can watch an learn from those ahead of you.

For this “flash format” for the Q1 and Q2 routes, there is no isolation and competitors are free to watch the routes of their fellow competitors. Once semi-finals starts, then isolation begins and they are not allowed to watch any competitors until they’ve climbed the route themselves.

This running order will put the US team girls climbing late morning or early afternoon.

Forgot to mention yesterday that Chauncey was spreading what she thought was Nutella on some bread for breakfast and it turned out to be vegimite. Wow, you should have seen her reaction to that! :-)