Qualifiers 1 results

The US Team with only a few exceptions had a solid performance today. The competition itself is running very well and on schedule. Today started with a pretty low-key opening ceremony outside the gym. The spectating was actually much better than I thought it would be which I’m relieved about. The gym is accomodating the onslaught pretty well. The walls themselves are very tall - no doubt, world-class and will work these kids good. Also, the wall where they will do speed is very tall and wide, front and center, so I think the speed climbing will be a very good event from the looks of it. The qualifiers for speed don’t start until Saturday.

Chauncey’s 16-17 category had 42 climbers in the field. The Q1 route they climbed was very technical, mostly vertical and very little separated the field today. For example, Tiffany Hensley timed out on the last hold of the route, so she completed everything except the last clip and came out of Q1 in 16th. So, there were quite a number of flashes. For non-climbers reading, a “flash” is when a climber complets the route without a fall.

Chauncey and Jesse Youngwerth are tied right now at 25th and both had solid climbs but came off about 3 holds from the top. Just that much made a huge difference in placement given how competitve the field is.

Chauncey Q1 - 01

I have a sequence of Chauncey’s upper half route in the photo album from today, if you want to see a non-video sequence of her climb.

Others on the US team, Marah Bragdon and Sasha Diguilian, both flashed. Here’s Marah on Q1:

Marah Bragdon Q1

and Sasha:

Sasha Digulian-3

We’re hoping they’ll give an overhanging, burly route to them tomorrow, because even some of the girls who flashed today (not US), did not look as strong as our girls and I think a good, powerful, endurance type route would really play to our strengths and adjust things again.

They’ll be taking the top 26 into semi finals and the combination score of Q1 and Q2 are evenly weighted. So, it’s live to fight another day mode tomorrow.

Chauncey’s friend from Boulder, Kirky Olsen, in the 18-19 category, finished Q1 in 21st.

Kirky Olsen-2

After the 16-17 girls US team had all finished, Chauncey, Ali, and I figured out where the train station was that was nearest to the gym, walked to the train, and figured out how to get back to the Olympic Park from the gym. So, we came back around 1:30 and it took about an hour to get back. The entire team had taken two chartered buses to the gym about 6:15 this morning. The buses weren’t coming back until after the round was finished this afternoon.

When the girls and I got back, we went over to the Aquatic center for a late afternoon swim. The girls just floated around mainly in the fun pools. I was able to swim in the warmup pool while they had the main pool closed for team use. Then about 4:30 they opened up a couple of lanes in the main pool and I swam in it again. I could get used to having an Olympic pool available.

Pictures from Q1 events today.